I really don’t know how it happened! Ok, well, I sort of know. I didn’t know that I had dinged my board until about 15 minutes after a the incident. You see, I went surfing today and had been out for a while. I wanted to catch a wave in to see how Art was doing with the girls. It was super crowded out, there were not enough waves to go around and I only wanted to catch one tiny little inside wave, just to go in. I saw a wave coming, knew it was going to close out, but I went for it anyway because I wanted to go in and I didn’t have time to be so selective. So I paddled, hopped up, and a few seconds later, a guy on the inside of me caught the wave too. Now, some people’s protocol would have said that I should have kicked out and let the guy behind me ride that wave. But, some people would say not, because I was on it first. See, already there was some fishy gray area, room for interpretation! Anyway, I was thinking… ‘Dude, come on, whatta you doin‘, this wave is gong to close out, why are you racing down the line at me like that?’. Sigh… he was fully charging at me and the wave was about to close out. What I wanted to do was to go straight, and ride the whitewater in. But, the dude was coming straight for me, and that would have meant a collision, so I had to kick out, or try to pull off the wave. Only, when I kicked out, the lip of the wave caught me and I lost my board.
No big deal, I thought. I paddled back out to catch another wave in and like 10 minutes later felt a curly hair on the rail of the board. Ewwww… I thought… Art’s leg hair got stuck in the wax… But then, I felt the tell tale soft spot and scratchy line where the fibre glass had been cracked. Ooops! I’ve got a ding! And, ewww… it’s that guy’s leg hair. And, why didn’t he come hollering and screaming at me, because that had to of hurt! I’m assuming the only thing that could have left a ding in my board would have been a shin. Oh ouch…. I’m sorry Mr. Dude Man. I didn’t mean to take your leg hair home with me tonight.
Other than the leg hair and the ding. The session was pretty spectacular. Good waves. Beautiful sunset. Dolphins swimming right next to me, a HUGE ray swimming under me, that scared the CRAP out of me until I realized what it was. I went in to see how Art, Margo and Goldie were doing at the playground. All was well and Art sent me back out to go catch more waves. Goldie was happy and Art had her in the Ergo. She was busy watching Margo swing and busy drooling. I swear, if ever a baby could be put on a feeding schedule (I feed on demand though), it would be her. She is so easy going. Margo, as a baby, would have definitely had cracked it if Art had her on the beach for the 2 1/2 hours that I went surfing.
It was really fun, there were lots of people out in the water that I was chatting to. After living here for almost five years, we’ve made quite a few friends out there. I didn’t catch a huge amount of waves, seeing as it was pretty crowded, but it was good enough!
We got home, Goldie was still holding herself together very well, I might add. Margo took a bubble bath and I fed the little one. Then, Margo and I ate some dodgy pasta leftovers, leaving Art nothing but some cereal. But, nobody complained. We played around for while, and discovered that Margo is getting really good at catching and throwing a ball (much to my dismay that Art was letting her do it in the house). Then everyone went to bed. Except, I came back out in the living room to eat half price Christmas chocolate that Art bought today and write about our afternoon 🙂 Hope you all had a lovely Christmas! And, I hope the guy’s leg, or whatever part of his body the hair came from, doesn’t have too huge of a bruise on it…