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Category Archives: Surfing

Eat, Sleep, Surf. Repeat. Merry Christmas!

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Good waves on Christmas? That’s equal to a surfer’s white Christmas!

Ho Ho Ho!  What a day!  Santa delivered some super fun waves and a beautiful day!  For once, we had very light winds too, normally, no matter what the wind direction is this time of year, it’s all windy and blowy (even when it’s hot). Read the rest of this entry

Wind that Makes for Crazy Days (and How to Stop the Room From Spinning)

When the room starts spinning... get unspun!

When the room starts spinning… get unspun!  They both wanted ‘up’ so I put them in a wrap and spun them ’round and ’round

In October 2007, my husband and I spent a couple weeks in southern California for a surf contest, the USA Surfing Championships.  (I’ll just casually mention that I won my division… ahem, 2007 Woman’s Longboard title…) But, what really set this trip apart from the others was the damn wind!  Our first day there, I noticed everything looked bone dry. I said to Art, “Man, it looks like a tinder box here.”  Two days later, a hot, dry and extremely strong wind called the Santa Ana winds started blowing and southern California was experiencing some of it’s worst wildfires ever.  Lots of homes burned, lots of smoke that we breathed in… and some of the most epic, uncrowded waves I’ve ever surfed in southern California… like ever, dude… Read the rest of this entry

Five Year Aussie-versary. And, I’m Just Getting Used to Vegemite

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The flight

The flight

Five years ago today, Art and I first stepped foot onto Australian soil.  With us, we had 4 suitcases, 5 surfboards and as much carry on baggage as they would allow on the plane.  We left EVERYTHING behind.  Actually, we still have a storage shed full of crap sitting in Berlin, Maryland, if anyone wants to go rummaging around.  The storage shed is full stuff that we frantically packed away as we ran out of time getting ready for our over seas voyage.  I was planning on doing a year of university to get my Masters of Education so that I could become a teacher.  Art was coming for the ride and we weren’t exactly sure about his plan, but he wasn’t going to stay behind in Maryland USA all by himself!  Looking back, it was probably the scariest, riskiest and stupidest thing we’ve ever done in our lives!!!!  Drop everything and move all the way across the world!?!  Yes, we were indeed crazy! Read the rest of this entry

Margo’s First Surf!

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Come on mom!  Get in, out of the lineup, so you can take ME surfing!

Come on mom! Get in, out of the lineup, so you can take ME surfing!

Margo really cracks us up!  One second, she’s whimpering because she sees a dog off his lead, and the next moment, she’s
petting a baby crocodile at the wildlife sanctuary.  One second, she’s crying because she got water (just water, not soap),
in her eyes in the shower, and the next second, she’s jumping in the ocean and begging for me to take her surfing! Anyway, I was
surfing for about an hour and a half, and Art was on the beach, with Goldie in the Ergo (baby carrier) and Margo was playing in
shallow baby pool on the inside.  I was really surprised to see that they were still hanging out on the beach and hadn’t gone
home yet even after I had been out for a while.  When I paddled in, Margo wanted me to take her surfing!  Lucky for
me, I have some surf lesson instructor hours up my sleeve, from when I lived on Maui year ago.  Here were are, surfing at
Rainbow Bay, what a beautiful evening! Read the rest of this entry

Big Waves and When You Just Have to Go In: Slightly Metaphorically Speaking

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Goldie's not zilched!  She's right here!

Goldie’s not zilched! She’s right here!

I wasn’t planning on going surfing!  Art asked me about five hundred times today if I wanted to go, and I just kept saying that I would rather just go for a quick swim while he took Margo to the playground.   Read the rest of this entry

The Moment You Look at Your Surfboard and Notice a Ding with Some Dude’s Leg Hair Stuck in It

So sorry dude... I didn't want to take your hair home with me.

Can you see it?  So sorry dude… I didn’t want to take your leg hair home with me.

I really don’t know how it happened!  Ok, well, I sort of know.  I didn’t know that I had dinged my board until about 15 minutes after a the incident.  You see, I went surfing today and had been out for a while.  I wanted to catch a wave in to see how Art was doing with the girls.   Read the rest of this entry

Swearing in the Ocean and Something that Gave Me Goosebumps!

Little Miss Sunshine, I like to call her.

Little Miss Sunshine, I like to call her.

The waves were really good today at Rainbow Bay.  Somehow it ended up that I got to surf twice!  Woohoo!  My first session was more like a ‘surf session fail’.  I decided to not wear a leash AND I was wearing a hat AND the waves were way bigger than I thought AND it was really crowded.   Read the rest of this entry